If there
were ever a quintessential ‘see and be seen’ restaurant, Al Biernat’s is
it. Honestly, LA is probably more
befitting of a restaurant with this much star power. And I’m not talking just local Dallas celebs like
Aikman, Dirk, Emmitt, Modano, and Jerry Jones.
Literally, every VIP from every corner of the world who rests their
private jet in Dallas
has dinner at Al’s. But unlike many of
the other came and gone flash in the pans, Al’s has a staying power the likes
this town rarely sees. So, what’s the
magic formula that keeps billionaires, bimbos, ballers, bombshells and big wigs
clamoring for a table at Al’s? Well, the
side of the building says it all. Al
Biernat’s.
We’re
certainly not the first to laud the personable owner’s prowess as one of the
premier front men in the country. You
probably have heard his memory is damn near photographic, name recollection
Rain Man like, and genuineness – well – genuine. He made his bones rising the
ranks within the Palm Restaurant empire starting as busboy at the Beverly Hills location in 1976 and culminating with 15
years of service in every front of the house position at the Dallas outpost. Though it has lost a lot of its luster as the
Dallas dining
scene has progressed, the Palm was at one time the mess hall of choice for
every premier power broker in the city.
What better place to meet, greet, and befriend Dallas’ elite? Parlaying that stint into a wildly successful
namesake restaurant on the edge of the Park Cities seemed and proved to be one
of the bigger no-brainers in Dallas
restaurant history. Al was the Palm. Everybody knew Al. Everybody loved Al. And whether you are the star or just star
struck, everybody wants to eat at Al’s. But,
the best thing about Al’s is even when you peel back the throngs of nationwide acclaim,
glamorous façade, and congenial owner, you’ll find some marvelous food that on
its own prompts discerning diners to return again and again.
Though it is tempting to think of Al’s as a steakhouse, I urge you
to think of it as a great restaurant that just happens to serve great
steaks. Honestly, some of their non-beef
items deserve as much or more recognition.
And at the very top of that list is the Sea Bass (Sorry, I know we usually start in the progression of Apps, Entrees, Dessert
and Wine but this dish is simply too good to put off!). This dish is sublime. A perfect bass filet is pan seared forming a
nice crust on top. A slight nudging from
your fork renders flawlessly moist chunks of the delicate fish. Beneath is a wicked and decadent lobster
risotto that is creamy yet still al dente. Loaded with lobster morsels, this
could easily be a meal all by itself.
Toss in a swirl of basil & chive infused olive oil and you’ve got
one of the single very best dishes in Dallas
(obviously this is included in our Dishes to Die For section). When he’s not pointing out the painfully
obvious to the painfully oblivious, word is Dr. Phil orders this on every visit
to Al’s.
Okay, back to the protocol. If
caviar is your thing, Al’s offers the best that the Russkies have to offer
served with traditional accompaniments.
Premium caviar at a Dallas
steakhouse? You bet. More conventional steakhouse fare that is
served more unconventional are the crab cakes and calamari. The cakes are packed with lump crab meat and
dressed with a white mustard sauce and tomato jam. So refreshing not to see the same old crab
cake with remoulade sauce. Instead of
the unexciting deep fried crispy calamari served with a squeeze of lemon and jar
quality marinara, Al’s come with potato crusting and served with a homemade red
wine based red sauce. Crusted with
shaved potatoes, this is a nice change of pace from the brass tacks squid
served elsewhere.
You can get your usual beefsteak tomato, Caesar or chophouse salad
fix at Al’s but instead steer yourself toward Al’s Salad – a fresh combination of
field greens, avocado, shrimp and lump crab.
This is not your normal pre-dinner size salad so, unless you came super
hungry, you may want to split this with your dinner companion. The other interesting rabbit food offering is
the Hearts of Palm salad. Known by some
in the culinary world as Millionaire’s Salad (since these delectable nuggets
are actually harvested from the core of certain palm trees, making their harvest
very costly), Al’s version comes simply dressed with hazelnut vinaigrette. What better place to served Millionaire’s
Salad?
On their menu, Al’s proudly boasts a meat affiliation with the
prominent beef purveyor Allen Brothers and their selection of cuts is second to
none. They offer the NY Strip both wet
and dry aged. It all comes down to
personal preference (mine being wet) but it is a little rare to see both
methods offered on the same menu. In
addition to the strip, they offer the filet 4 ways – a 10 oz Kobe/Angus hybrid,
a 16 oz bone-in, and then a 14 and 8 oz, any of which can be prepared Oscar
style. A monster 24 oz Ribeye, 26 oz
Porterhouse and Prime Rib round out the steak menu. The Allen Brothers name and reputation
proceed itself and their insistence on selecting only the primest of the prime
beef out there insures the steaks they deliver are the very highest quality
available. Trust us when we say Al’s
does nothing but make their beef even better.
In addition to the previously mentioned Sea Bass, non-steak winners
include a wonderful Colorado Elk filet.
Don’t convince yourself this is one of those exotic wild game dishes
that should only be enjoyed during winter months when you’re game for something
gamey. Quite the contrary, like venison
the elk meat is very lean. Served with
asparagus, mashed sweet potatoes, and a mushroom port wine sauce, this is a
satisfying entrée to be ordered any time of the year.
There are even a few Asian inspired dishes that highlight the menu. Carmelized Salmon with ginger sauce,
blackened scallops with Polynesian rice and curry sauce, and Sashimi grade
Yellowfin with wasabi cream fraiche all provide great alternatives to the meat
dishes and show the adeptness of the kitchen to execute a diverse menu.
You can find all the usual steakhouse desserts at Al’s and they
have above average offerings of crème brulee, NY Cheesecake, and Key Lime
pie. Even better are the chocolate bread
pudding with toffee ice cream, peanut butter banana cream pie, and the
chocolate ice cream bomb – chocolate malted ice cream that has a rich chocolate
truffle center. And thankfully they
don’t have the gargantuan portions that you often see at other big ticket
steakhouses. Again, it’s a great
restaurant first, great steakhouse second.
Under the
supervision of sommelier Todd Lincicome, the wine program at Al’s is
impressive. The last time I looked, they
had well over 100 California
cabs and another 40 or so Meritages. Of
course, that’s to be expected. More
unexpected is the fact that a similar law of large numbers holds up throughout
the varietals and countries represented.
30+ each of Australian & Italian (an extremely underrated steak
companion) reds, French Bourdeauxs, American Pinots and Merlots, 50 American
Chards, even 20 or so Red Zin labels.
Combined with the impressive list of Champagnes and sparkling wines and 25 half
bottle selections, no wonder Al’s list has received the Wine Spectator Award of
Excellence every year since they opened in 1998. And even though you should always expect the
wine to be temperature controlled at a restaurant of this caliber, that isn’t
always the case. At Al’s you can take
comfort in knowing that your red will arrive at a balmy 57 degrees. On our site, we’ve often praised those
sommeliers out there that don’t seem content on bullying you shamelessly to a
higher price point than you’re comfortable with while also delivering a wine
that you’ll be happy with. Mr. Lincicome
definitely makes that list so make sure to take advantage of his expertise on
your next visit.
When Al’s
took over the space previously occupied by Joey’s Italian Restaurant, he
inherited a beautiful dining room with dramatic pillars and a fanciful hot air
balloon and bubbles mural stretching up through the dome just above the
bar. And despite all the fanfare, the
scene at Al’s can actually be kind of intimate with low lighting and many cozy
booths. A few years ago, amid all the
commotion around indoor smoking, Al’s constructed a beautiful outdoor patio
with ceiling fans and plasma TVs. Hey,
when city hall turns their back on those of us that still like to enjoy a smoke
after a meal, it’s good to know veteran restaurateurs like Al have our back.
Like its
owner, the service is suave, attentive, and professional. The assembly of talent is a seasoned bunch
that knows fine dining 101 backwards and forwards. Yep, here you won’t have to deal with the
cool dudes or ditz queens that would seemingly rather be partying and who
insist on flaunting their irritation that you didn’t order bottled water or had
the nerve to ask for a special preparation.
Bad service just doesn’t happen at Al’s.
Now, how many restaurants can you say that about?
In many
ways, Al’s is both everything Dallas
is and is not known for. Glitzy dining
halls decorated with framed food reviews extolling their greatness filled with
scads of people dressed to the nines and professional athletes and deal makers
lurking around every corner, is not all that exceptional in these parts. But if that same restaurant gives its diners
an extraordinary menu, top notch wine list and sommelier, more than a hint of
privacy, unobtrusive and professional service, and a host that’s waived more
smiles and shaken more hands than a southern politician at a $2,500 a plate
fundraiser, well…you’ve got a combination that is traditionally very un-Dallas.