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Lagniappe [A little something extra]

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Food: HERE'S THE BEEF!
Location: Park Cities
Hours: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30
Dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-9
Contact: (214) 219-2201
Address: 4217 Oak Lawn
Dallas, TX 75219
www.albiernats.com

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AL BIERNAT'S

If there were ever a quintessential ‘see and be seen’ restaurant, Al Biernat’s is it.  Honestly, LA is probably more befitting of a restaurant with this much star power.  And I’m not talking just local Dallas celebs like Aikman, Dirk, Emmitt, Modano, and Jerry Jones.  Literally, every VIP from every corner of the world who rests their private jet in Dallas has dinner at Al’s.  But unlike many of the other came and gone flash in the pans, Al’s has a staying power the likes this town rarely sees.  So, what’s the magic formula that keeps billionaires, bimbos, ballers, bombshells and big wigs clamoring for a table at Al’s?  Well, the side of the building says it all.  Al Biernat’s. 

We’re certainly not the first to laud the personable owner’s prowess as one of the premier front men in the country.  You probably have heard his memory is damn near photographic, name recollection Rain Man like, and genuineness – well – genuine. He made his bones rising the ranks within the Palm Restaurant empire starting as busboy at the Beverly Hills location in 1976 and culminating with 15 years of service in every front of the house position at the Dallas outpost.  Though it has lost a lot of its luster as the Dallas dining scene has progressed, the Palm was at one time the mess hall of choice for every premier power broker in the city.  What better place to meet, greet, and befriend Dallas’ elite?  Parlaying that stint into a wildly successful namesake restaurant on the edge of the Park Cities seemed and proved to be one of the bigger no-brainers in Dallas restaurant history.  Al was the Palm.  Everybody knew Al.  Everybody loved Al.  And whether you are the star or just star struck, everybody wants to eat at Al’s.  But, the best thing about Al’s is even when you peel back the throngs of nationwide acclaim, glamorous façade, and congenial owner, you’ll find some marvelous food that on its own prompts discerning diners to return again and again.

Though it is tempting to think of Al’s as a steakhouse, I urge you to think of it as a great restaurant that just happens to serve great steaks.  Honestly, some of their non-beef items deserve as much or more recognition.  And at the very top of that list is the Sea Bass (Sorry, I know we usually start in the progression of Apps, Entrees, Dessert and Wine but this dish is simply too good to put off!).  This dish is sublime.  A perfect bass filet is pan seared forming a nice crust on top.  A slight nudging from your fork renders flawlessly moist chunks of the delicate fish.  Beneath is a wicked and decadent lobster risotto that is creamy yet still al dente. Loaded with lobster morsels, this could easily be a meal all by itself.  Toss in a swirl of basil & chive infused olive oil and you’ve got one of the single very best dishes in Dallas (obviously this is included in our Dishes to Die For section).  When he’s not pointing out the painfully obvious to the painfully oblivious, word is Dr. Phil orders this on every visit to Al’s.

Okay, back to the protocol.  If caviar is your thing, Al’s offers the best that the Russkies have to offer served with traditional accompaniments.  Premium caviar at a Dallas steakhouse?  You bet.  More conventional steakhouse fare that is served more unconventional are the crab cakes and calamari.  The cakes are packed with lump crab meat and dressed with a white mustard sauce and tomato jam.  So refreshing not to see the same old crab cake with remoulade sauce.  Instead of the unexciting deep fried crispy calamari served with a squeeze of lemon and jar quality marinara, Al’s come with potato crusting and served with a homemade red wine based red sauce.  Crusted with shaved potatoes, this is a nice change of pace from the brass tacks squid served elsewhere. 

You can get your usual beefsteak tomato, Caesar or chophouse salad fix at Al’s but instead steer yourself toward Al’s Salad – a fresh combination of field greens, avocado, shrimp and lump crab.  This is not your normal pre-dinner size salad so, unless you came super hungry, you may want to split this with your dinner companion.  The other interesting rabbit food offering is the Hearts of Palm salad.  Known by some in the culinary world as Millionaire’s Salad (since these delectable nuggets are actually harvested from the core of certain palm trees, making their harvest very costly), Al’s version comes simply dressed with hazelnut vinaigrette.  What better place to served Millionaire’s Salad?

On their menu, Al’s proudly boasts a meat affiliation with the prominent beef purveyor Allen Brothers and their selection of cuts is second to none.  They offer the NY Strip both wet and dry aged.  It all comes down to personal preference (mine being wet) but it is a little rare to see both methods offered on the same menu.  In addition to the strip, they offer the filet 4 ways – a 10 oz Kobe/Angus hybrid, a 16 oz bone-in, and then a 14 and 8 oz, any of which can be prepared Oscar style.  A monster 24 oz Ribeye, 26 oz Porterhouse and Prime Rib round out the steak menu.  The Allen Brothers name and reputation proceed itself and their insistence on selecting only the primest of the prime beef out there insures the steaks they deliver are the very highest quality available.  Trust us when we say Al’s does nothing but make their beef even better.

In addition to the previously mentioned Sea Bass, non-steak winners include a wonderful Colorado Elk filet.  Don’t convince yourself this is one of those exotic wild game dishes that should only be enjoyed during winter months when you’re game for something gamey.  Quite the contrary, like venison the elk meat is very lean.  Served with asparagus, mashed sweet potatoes, and a mushroom port wine sauce, this is a satisfying entrée to be ordered any time of the year.

There are even a few Asian inspired dishes that highlight the menu.  Carmelized Salmon with ginger sauce, blackened scallops with Polynesian rice and curry sauce, and Sashimi grade Yellowfin with wasabi cream fraiche all provide great alternatives to the meat dishes and show the adeptness of the kitchen to execute a diverse menu.

You can find all the usual steakhouse desserts at Al’s and they have above average offerings of crème brulee, NY Cheesecake, and Key Lime pie.  Even better are the chocolate bread pudding with toffee ice cream, peanut butter banana cream pie, and the chocolate ice cream bomb – chocolate malted ice cream that has a rich chocolate truffle center.  And thankfully they don’t have the gargantuan portions that you often see at other big ticket steakhouses.  Again, it’s a great restaurant first, great steakhouse second.

Under the supervision of sommelier Todd Lincicome, the wine program at Al’s is impressive.  The last time I looked, they had well over 100 California cabs and another 40 or so Meritages.  Of course, that’s to be expected.  More unexpected is the fact that a similar law of large numbers holds up throughout the varietals and countries represented.  30+ each of Australian & Italian (an extremely underrated steak companion) reds, French Bourdeauxs, American Pinots and Merlots, 50 American Chards, even 20 or so Red Zin labels.  Combined with the impressive list of Champagnes and sparkling wines and 25 half bottle selections, no wonder Al’s list has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence every year since they opened in 1998.  And even though you should always expect the wine to be temperature controlled at a restaurant of this caliber, that isn’t always the case.  At Al’s you can take comfort in knowing that your red will arrive at a balmy 57 degrees.  On our site, we’ve often praised those sommeliers out there that don’t seem content on bullying you shamelessly to a higher price point than you’re comfortable with while also delivering a wine that you’ll be happy with.  Mr. Lincicome definitely makes that list so make sure to take advantage of his expertise on your next visit.

When Al’s took over the space previously occupied by Joey’s Italian Restaurant, he inherited a beautiful dining room with dramatic pillars and a fanciful hot air balloon and bubbles mural stretching up through the dome just above the bar.  And despite all the fanfare, the scene at Al’s can actually be kind of intimate with low lighting and many cozy booths.  A few years ago, amid all the commotion around indoor smoking, Al’s constructed a beautiful outdoor patio with ceiling fans and plasma TVs.  Hey, when city hall turns their back on those of us that still like to enjoy a smoke after a meal, it’s good to know veteran restaurateurs like Al have our back.

Like its owner, the service is suave, attentive, and professional.  The assembly of talent is a seasoned bunch that knows fine dining 101 backwards and forwards.  Yep, here you won’t have to deal with the cool dudes or ditz queens that would seemingly rather be partying and who insist on flaunting their irritation that you didn’t order bottled water or had the nerve to ask for a special preparation.  Bad service just doesn’t happen at Al’s.  Now, how many restaurants can you say that about?

In many ways, Al’s is both everything Dallas is and is not known for.  Glitzy dining halls decorated with framed food reviews extolling their greatness filled with scads of people dressed to the nines and professional athletes and deal makers lurking around every corner, is not all that exceptional in these parts.  But if that same restaurant gives its diners an extraordinary menu, top notch wine list and sommelier, more than a hint of privacy, unobtrusive and professional service, and a host that’s waived more smiles and shaken more hands than a southern politician at a $2,500 a plate fundraiser, well…you’ve got a combination that is traditionally very un-Dallas. 

OWNER PROFILE
AL BIERNAT
"Al Biernat is the hand shaking, cheek kissing host that makes his namesake restaurant famous."