Suze is the type of joint you want to both tell everyone about and tell no one about.  Who doesn’t want to be the first to tell their friends, coworkers, and out of town guests about a hidden gem on the fine dining scene?  But, then again, you almost don’t want Suze to become too known so a bunch of riff raff comes in and ruins the place.  Well, consider Suze officially exposed as perhaps the best neighborhood bistro in Dallas.

Chef/Owner Gilbert Garza has built a strong and loyal following in the surrounding Bluffview and Devonshire neighborhoods without much advertising or local fanfare (though he’s been recognized in USA Today, Esquire, and Bon Appetite).  About half the people I mention Suze to still haven’t heard of it and this certainly isn’t a spot you’re going to notice driving by and then decide to stop in and try.  Wedged in the far northeast corner of a shopping center on Midway and Northwest Highway next to Albertson’s, you’ve got to know where you’re going to find it.

The dining room is cozy without being cramped.  The vibrant wall colors are muted to a warm glow with low lit lighting throughout the space.  A lush velvet curtain lining the back wall gives the illusion of another space.  Angled mirrors hang uniformly on another wall opening up the space even more.

Chef Garza describes his menu as “global” for lack of a better term, with classic French techniques and influences from Spain and Italy.  He’s done a phenomenal job of touching on many parts of the world without the menu seeming erratic or misguided.  Based on our many visits, he’s that rare jack and master of all trades.

So, it should come as no surprise that the Appetizers span the globe.  A Moroccan Delights platter of hummus, olives, and artichoke pesto served with warm pita bread is fresh and simple.  A crispy sesame flatbread Lavosh comes simply topped with true buffalo mozz, grated parmesan and spinach pesto.  Fried Green Tomatoes – something we don’t see enough of on menus – are crispy and served with Spanish Machego cheese and slow cooked marinara.  The Prince Island mussels are exceptional steamed simply in white wine and drizzled with the same slow cooked marinara sauce.  The final standout starter is the foie gras, which we feel is the very best foie gras in this city and beyond.  The medallion is simply pan seared.  Often, this liver dish is served with a fruit coulis or reduction.  Chef Garza pairs this with a cherry cassis.  Cherries are seen throughout his menu and it is ultra successful here.  Finished with mixed greens and white truffle oil, this starter is truly flawless.

The Caesar Salad at Suze was an award winner a few years back in the annual Caesar Salad Competition and the winning recipe has apparently stayed in tact.  Hearts of romaine are drizzled with the classic dressing.  I’m fairly sure I taste anchovies but there’s something else there I can’t quite put my finger on.  I wouldn’t dare ask an award winner to reveal his secret so I’ll just to continue to wonder in enjoyment.  Finished off with shaved romano and herbed croutons, this is as good a Caesar as you’ll find.  The Suze Salad is a simple mix of greens with a citrus orange vinaigrette.  Dotted with spicy pecans and roma tomatoes this is a satisfying yet light beginning.

The Entrée list is decidedly frustrating and I mean that in the best way possible.  If the roster of apps and salads were perplexing, the main course listing truly offers something for all the senses with 3 pastas, 3 seafoods, and a handful of meat and chops though all have some type of international twist to them.

On our last visit, we had the Cervena Venison over scalloped crumb potatoes.  Cervena is the Australian/New Zealand equivalent for Prime in the U.S. and I can say with absolute certainty this is the very best dish of venison I have ever eaten.  Absolutely phenomenal.  The loin was cured with espresso beans, sliced thick in two bite morsels and fanned over the top of the potatoes and cubed butternut squash.  Dressed with a hazelnut demi and cooked a perfect medium rare, the meat literally melted in my mouth.  We also tried the house made Gemelli pasta with crispy pancetta and wild mushrooms.  Sure, you’ve seen this lineup on other menus but Suze’ version is as good as we’ve had and was a perfectly rich offering on this particular chilly night. 

Previously, we’ve thoroughly enjoyed Chef Garza’s signature dish of Double Cut Pork Chop with Red curry rub and a golden raisin dried cherry sauce.  This award winning entrée is a hold over from the days when Gilbert was just the chef at Suze and we couldn’t be happier he’s kept it around!

All of the fish selections are fresh and delicious.  Our favorite is the Sea Bass that’s off the menu but often a nightly special.  Too often we see this delicate fish overpowered with sauces.  Suze prepares it simply and typically serves it over a risotto, cous cous, or pasta. 

Another regular special on the fall/winter menu is the Osso Bucco.  If it happens to be on the menu, order it.  You won’t be sorry.  Fall off the bone tender, both the veal and lamb versions are perched on top of a rich and creamy risotto. 

Finally, the Bottom Line, is a hefty Angus tenderloin served grilled over a garlic potato puree and drizzled with a red wine black truffle sauce.  In a town full of great steakhouses, this hunk of beef holds its own and then some.

Don’t you dare skip the dessert menu at Suze.  The lineup is both interesting and delectable.  The chocolate soufflé truffle cake was amazing with a crunchy cap and  ultra moist center.  A goat cheese carrot cake was a nice twist on the traditional version that too often comes with way too much cream cheese.  This was much lighter and came with a graham cracker crumble and drizzle of carroty caramel.  And the apple tart happily resisted the urge of going overly sweet, leaving the apples slightly firm and tart.  We’ve also thoroughly enjoyed more out of the ordinary desserts like peach shortcake with an orange biscuit, honey and mascarpone as well as chocolate cookies with pink peppercorns.  As is true with the rest of the menu, there’s really no need to question the collision of different ingredients.  It all works well.

Suze only serves beer and wine and, honestly, a mixed drink or martini really doesn’t have a place in this restaurant.  There’s no bar to congregate to wait for a table.  The focus is squarely on the food.  And, the space is pretty small so a bar would really take up too much room.  The wine list has depth and of all the offerings there are only three that top the $100 mark.  I’m sure Chef Garza could beef up the list with big names and expensive bottles but that really contradicts the vibe here.  The food is very complex, pulling from many different parts of the world so you need very approachable wines that can handle that kind of diversity.  Though the list is heavier on California, there is a nice assortment from Argentina, Chile, Spain, Italy and France.

The waitstaff is capable and generally knowledgeable on both the food and the wine.  However, if there are questions they can’t answer, just ask for Chef Garza.  He’s been manning the kitchen every time we’ve been and generally comes out to circulate with the diners toward the end of the evening.

No doubt there are more refined and prettier restaurants in the city but Suze has carved out its niche as a passionate, chef driven spot that exudes self confidence, approachability, and delicious diversity.  Just promise you won’t tell all your friends about it.