Sevy’s is
like that ‘go to’ pair of shoes in your closet.
Yes, fellow foodies, we know we’re probably entering uncharted waters
recommending a restaurant with a shoe analogy but indulge us for just a
sec. Back to your closet. You know the ones we’re talking about,
right? Yeah, those. The pair you can count on. The ones you continually reach for regardless
of the occasion. With the look that
never goes out of style and the ones that still look new when they’re polished
up. With such a comfortable fit and great look that
you feel confident wearing them with a suit or a pair of jeans. Every closet should have a pair of go to shoes
just like every foodie should have a go to restaurant like Sevy’s.
You could
say (and we are) that Sevy’s is the very best representation of what a true Dallas restaurant should
be about. What’s that mean you ask? Let’s face it foodie nation, our little town
is quite complicated. So a true Dallas
restaurant is one that can appeal effortlessly and equally to that melting pot
of people we call Dallasites. And the
proof that Sevy’s deserves that label smacks you in the face before you can
even say hi to the hostess. The crowd is
a collection of wildcatters, Parkies, botox beauties, golfers, urban cowboys, soccer
moms, corporate suits, cougars, senior cougars, trust funders, Bibled up
Baptists, empty nesters, MILFs, DINKs, and every other societal acronym out
there. Hell, we even saw Joe the Plumber
there a time or two. And it’s this stamp
of approval from the many factions that convinced us Sevy’s is the prozac that
has somehow tamed the multiple personality disorders of Dallas old and new.
So,
what’s the attraction? Well, from floor
to ceiling, cocktail to coffee and starter to dessert, Sevy’s strikes a perfect
balance between humble yet refined, impressive yet welcoming. The décor is fancy and contemporary enough
for you to feel right at home in your custom suit but also restrained enough
where being cowboy cool in your jeans and boots, or in your shorts and golf
shoes (soft spikes only please!) is just fine too.
And then
there’s the food. How does a restaurant tackle
the evolving likes and dislikes of the fickle Dallas crowd?
First things first, you need an actual chef in the kitchen. Sí! Next, you gotta serve steak and lobster for
the big-time and refined set. Check.
You gotta have a couple of great sandwiches. For
sure. The skinny Minnies’ will need a
solid lineup of salads. Yep.
Wild game is a necessity. Shoot yeah! A comfort food option is crucial when the
weather goes sub-50. Yum.
Diverse wine list that’ll match up with whatever menu option you
choose. Drink up! And, finally, you
absolutely have to be able to shake up a stellar martini. Sturdy
and Dirty!!
On the
starters we love the venison, scallops, and shrimp cakes. Good ole Texas venison is cured and smoked sausage style
then grilled up and served with Sevy’s house made bitchin BBQ sauce and pickled vegetables. There’s just something magical about the
combination of cooler weather and jabbing these little morsels with a fork and
smearing them in BBQ sauce, popping them in my mouth and chasing it with a big
boy red wine. Maybe it tickles my extremely faint Lonesome Dove fancy
(though I don’t think they were slurping down cabernet on the cattle drive)? Not sure but I seem to find a plate of it in
front of me every time I go. Now, we’ve
often said the best scallops are the simplest ones. Sevy’s simply sears theirs and mashes them gently
into a heap of truffle whipped potatoes.
Crispy leeks on top offers another texture profile. Smoke is a recurring them on the menu at
Sevy’s thanks to their wood burning grill stacked full of both hickory and
mesquite woods. So don’t be surprised to
see a smoked shrimp cake instead of the much more common crab version. But don’t think of the shrimp cakes as the
crab cake’s black sheep cousin, no, no, no.
In fact, we prefer the hunks of shrimp to the shredded crab you get in
most crab cakes. Throw in the hint of
smokiness and the herb lemon aioli and punch of red pepper pureé and these
little jewels are showstoppers.
For all
your rabbit food eaters out there, the chop salad at Sevy’s is different than
most – meaning its not drowning in an overly tangy dressing that thwarts any
hope of you actually tasting the lettuce and other ingredients. Their oregano vinaigrette is just right and
the inclusion of yellow and red peppers makes this positively Texas.
For soups, on one of your visits, a bowl of the corn chowder is a
must. It’s nothing fancy or ground breaking. It’s just a soul satisfying bowl of creamy
soup with jags of fresh corn floating throughout. Go getcha some.
Based on
what we’ve written, you just know Sevy’s
has a great burger right? We’ll go ahead
and end the suspense..yeah, it’s pretty damn good. If you ask nicely they’ll bring it out for
dinner but it’s a mainstay on the lunch menu.
It’s under 10 bucks so we’re not going to throw into the hâute hamburger
category but it’s as good as any around.
Big enough to fill you up but still small enough to get your mouth
around; it comes with smoked bacon and a thick slice of cheddar. And just to remind you this ain’t no drive
through burger, they serve it on a toasted Kaiser roll with a home made coarse
mustard sauce. Sided up with crispy
fries, this will chase down a hangover faster than a bottomless mimosa. Headed to or from the golf course? Can’t handle a big steak but the thought of
what’s in your fridge is frightening you and you’re kind of feeling tingly from
the final, final in the 19th hole?
No prob. Belly up to the bar and
order up a Sherry Plaza Club. Don’t
expect to find any pre-sliced processed and preservatived meat on this triple
decker either. Grilled chicken, hand cut
ham with bacon, cheese, mayo, lettuce and tomato all served up on grilled
sourdough. You gotta love a meat eaters
sandwich.
Off of
Sevy’s Specialties, a few lunch entrees have made our day over the last several
years. Mack’s Five Pepper Chicken is,
well, chicken with 5 peppers – red, yellow, green, poblano, and
pepperoncini. They bread a big chicken
breast then swaddle it in the peppers and bake it off in the oven. The overlapping peppers meld to form a little
fortress for the bird and give just enough kick to make this anything but just
another chicken dinner. Served over
linguini tossed in basil oil, we seem to always make a happy plate when this
dish shows up in front of us. And isn’t
there something homey, comforting and warming about a good serving of meatloaf? We think so and Sevy’s rocks. Again, in a place like this you expect it to
be fine-dining-ized and it is. They
serve their savory, moist slab over a heaping mound of truffle whipped potatoes
accompanied by roasted haricot verts (or little green beans for all you
anti-Frogs out there). A ladle full of wild
mushroom sauce over the top makes this one of the best cold weather dishes in
out there but its only good for 2nd place at Sevy’s. And that’s because of their Kobe Pot
Roast. Hopefully my mom won’t read this,
but I’ve never had a more tender and tasty serving of pot roast in my
life.
You’ve
heard us say it before about duck – or if you haven’t listen up! Confit is hands down the best way to eat Daffy,
Donald and the rest of the gang. The
whole confit process is centuries old and isn’t all that difficult, just pretty
time consuming. But, that’s the chef’s
problem not ours right? Sevy’s serves
their rendition with a hint of Asian flair to it with a spicy sweet glaze,
edamame, and crunchy wontons all over a salad of mixed greens. Considering the duck is cooked in its own
fat, this is more of a meal salad and not one of those you order when you’re
trying to move from heavyweight to middleweight. Hey, you can diet when you’re dead so live it
up a little while you still can!
Of course
you know there’s gotta be a rockin’ steak on the menu. Smokey shows up again on their center cut
filet, hickory smoked and grilled with a pool of classic cabernet sauce and
fried onion strings as plate mates.
Wanna do the Texas
2 step (that’s steak and lobster in snootyfoodie speak)? No problem, you can add a tail to any steak. But if there’s one dish we always think about
when we’re driving toward Sevy’s, it’s definitely the Wild Game Mixed
Grill. The meats rotate but most
recently this included cumin crusted venison medallions and a bacon wrapped Texas quail served over
spicy grits and drizzled with a smoky sweet chipotle raspberry sauce. Literally, this dish makes me want to go fill
out an NRA application.
We love
extensive wine lists but they have their place and are candidly only
appropriate at a certain type of restaurant.
At Sevy’s, with its appeal to all comers, refined casual approach it
only makes sense to have an all in one menu/wine list combo. So, Sevy’s has their list at the back part of
the menu for your perusal. You won’t
find any real surprises there and that’s just fine with us. You’ve got a few home run bottles and the
requisite vintage Champagnes
for those that have come to celebrate their most recent kazillion. But, for the most part it’s a pocketbook
friendly, California
heavy list that waltzes in step with the menu.
Not too extravagant but just enough panache to remind you it’s a fine
dining joint.
Jim “Sevy”
Severson is the affable exec chef/owner, known throughout the industry as one
of the good guys. Most nights he’s
dancing around the room greeting regulars and new comers alike. No doubt every successful restaurant needs an
identity and Sevy is the face of this place (though GM/co-owner Jimmy Fell,
chef/partner Buzzy Zeve and Mgr/Partner Stefaan Vandemoortele are fixtures as
well). With our golf references above
you might guess he’s an avid golfer, and it’s not all that unusual to see him
on the patio having a putting contest with one of his guests. It’s this type of personality that just
exudes the “we’re glad you’re here so get
comfortable and stay awhile” attitude.
And this extends down to the wait staff as well. A more than capable group that eases around
the dining room with assuredness and a welcoming disposition. You just know you’re in good hands.
Perhaps
you’ve passed right by Sevy’s and wrote it off as some high falutin’ Parkie
hangout as you turn into Houston’s
to pay $12 for spinach dip. Well, think
of Sevy’s as what Houston’s will be when they
grow up and move to Dallas. And, don’t let the location, location,
location fool you. Sure, Sevy’s is on
the edge of zip code elite-dom but this joint is anything but a place that
prides itself on the feedeth of the
eliteth. In fact, these guys are
damn near contentious about being pretentious.
As the vast majority of fine dining restaurants scramble to embrace the
movement to a more casual fine dining experience, Sevy’s was essentially
founded on this principle and has puttered along for 11 years now with this
mantra as its foundation. Sure, you can slap
a business casual label on it if you want but, to us, it’s just quintessential Dallas. And everyone here knows what that is.